Great Victorian Eating & Drinking

Dec 2000

Travelling round Victoria it’s not just the scenery that changes. You’ll find fascinating variations in eating and drinking too – different characters, settings and regional produce. And you certainly won’t go hungry. There’s good places in every region and some exceptional quality and value. The ten not to be missed are listed below.

How to find them? Over the last two years, we’ve been asking local foodies round the state, driving round and checking them out. The result, Mietta’s Eating and Drinking in Australia 2001, reviews 3800 places, more than 1200 of them in Victoria.

On the west coast, try fish curry with blustery views from the Lighthouse Cafe at Cape Nelson Lightstation. From Portland to Port Fairy where the Victoria Hotel provides a fine setting indoors with a ‘new’ bluestone wall, huge fireplace, cosy bar, impressive open kitchen and outdoors with music playing in the courtyard. Lovely to wander round the town, call into Rebecca’s in the main street for coffee and cake with kids’ drawings covering the walls and then walk along the river and stop for fish and chips at Sou’West Seafoods.

Fast pizzas, lots of action and fun at Bojangles in Warrnambool. Opposite in busy Liebig Street, very good pasta and seafood at Freshwater in brightly painted surrounds. Service, menu and wine list are kept well up to the mark. A few blocks away, choose a couch or one of the cozy benches for a drink at The Warrnambool Hotel.

Go inland to Hamilton where you’ll find The Strand run by former owners of Freshwater. Very good value food in a series of eccentric rooms, interesting art works and, out back, a courtyard shaded by fine old trees.

Then to Dunkeld where the Royal Mail Hotel is a wonderful place to stay, a peaceful retreat for couples and popular throughout the year for conferences. A good menu and wine list, excellent service, and many different comfortable spots to relax with the splendid view of Mt Sturgeon dominating the landscape.

Continuing inland, try a glass of local wine at the Vines in Ararat, fine coffee and Italian food at L’Espresso, Ballarat.

In Daylesford, cafes are booming in the main street with Frangos and Frangos providing the grooviest scene. But it is at theLake House that you’ll find the best service and setting along with an extraordinary selection of wines from all over the world.

The big surprise in country Victoria is at Trentham, where you’ll discover true Thai tastes at . Owners Bryan and Chaiseeha have built up this small, very personally run business over the past two years. If their complex and beautifully spiced dishes don’t suit, go on to Tuki for simply grilled fresh trout and excellent roast lamb at Smeaton. You can catch your own trout and have it cooked in front of you. This family run property has lovely gardens and stone cottages provide accomodation too.

Flavours at Gonnella's in Kyneton are Tuscan, reflecting owner Suzanne McDonnell’s heritage. Her grandfather, Ferrucio Gonella, came from Lucca and the cafe has stories and old pictures of the family along with some fine artworks.

Amongst the grander Victorian eating experiences is Eleonore's at Chateau Yering. Home of Victoria’s first vine planting and two excellent restaurants ­ the more casual Sweetwater and the lavishly set up and more pricey Eleonore's with Gary Cooper’s adventurous menu and Yarra Valley based wine list.

On the grass at Princess Park with the fine old hotels (Queenscliff and Ozone) overlooking it is the happy go lucky Harry’s by the Sea where chef owner Michael Barrett prepares the freshest of seafood just a few steps away from the sea and the pier.

If you prefer the cool of the mountains over summer, Bright provides some of the best Italian style food in Australia. At Caffe Bacco, great pizzas and delicious salads or at Simone's in a simply set up motel dining room. Here you have an a la carte menu and a good locally based wine list. Both places run by Patrizia and George Simone.

It’s a long warm drive to Mildura but a great eating experience awaits you at Stefano's Cantina in the old cellar of the Grand Hotel. A succession of delicious Italian style dishes and a fabulous wine list to choose from.

These are just a few tastes from round the state. Lots more on the coast, in Gippsland and many good winery cafes and restaurants.

Not to be missed

Eleonore’s and Sweetwater, Chateau Yering 9237 3333
Freshwater, Warrnambool 5561 3188
Gonnella’s, Kyneton 5422 2022
The Hamilton Strand, Hamilton 5571 9144
Harry’s by the Sea, Queenscliff 5258 3750
Lake House, Daylesford 5348 3329
Royal Mail Hotel, Dunkeld 5577 2241
Simone’s of Bright 5755 2022
Stefano’s, Mildura 5023 0511
Thai Issan, Trentham 5424 1811