Luxe

June 1998

Let there be light and lots of it seems to be the message this week.

Luxury of space and light is what Luxe is all about. Set on a rather scruffy part of Inkerman Street, St.Kilda, this new eating and drinking space defies definition. Due to open later this week, it's not to be called a wine bar, nor a bistro, nor a restaurant and it's definitely not the name of a soap.

It's been three years in the conception, the brainchild of building owner, Shurki Girgis, and designers, Jeff Provan, Barry Ludlow and Clare McAllister of Neo Metro. They approached Frank Heaney who, whilst waiting for the building to be finished, went ahead and opened est est est with Donovan Cooke and Philippa Sibley Cooke chefs and partners.

As est est est's success continues the team has entrusted some of their staff to run Luxe. Karen White has been cooking at est est est since it first opened, Simon Denton has been a friend for some time and member of staff since December and Rita Macali is well known for her work as co-head chef at the Kent and later at Il Bacaro. The two women will share the responsibility of the kitchen and Simon will run the front. He has good experience in that and in compiling cellar lists, a task which has been made considerably easier with Frank Heaney's personal collection, the basis of est est est's formidable wine list.

At Luxe, there's a short menu (mains from $14.50-16.50) and an extensive wine list. People can come just for a glass of wine (priced from $4) or for a full meal. As part of the flexibility which the partners want this light filled space to offer, the tables, topped with a lovely amber coloured translucent acrylic, will not be pre-set. After guests have ordered, an elegant wooden box will be brought to the table holding cutlery wrapped in a napkin and a wooden pepper grinder and salt bowl. Phiilippa's father designed and made the twenty boxes with their peppers and salts. The grinders are similar, but smaller in size, to those he made for est est est. They are a fine, personal touch, one which Simon hopes won't go astray.

Supervision of all details at Luxe is going to continue to be very personal. Philippa and Donovan Cooke have one of the 12 appartments upstairs and so are close to hand to see if everything goes well. Initially some basic preparations and desserts are coming from est's kitchens. Karen and Rita will introduce more of their own dishes over time -- Karen's from her London based training and Rita, from working experience in Italy, and from her parents' home cooking. They've got the luxury of a decent sized kitchen to start with but may soon have to cope with an expansion next door. Designer Jeff Provan explained plans for no. 9 Inkerman Street where an underground cellar is being built and, possibly by December, another small bar with bottle shop and food will be connected through to Luxe. For now it's the one lively, light room where no bookings are taken for dinners seven days and lunch from Friday to Sunday. For the designers, it's the creation of an appartment block with a difference, for the est team, it looks like another success on their hands and for Karen, Rita and Simon it's the opportunity to see their own food and wine dreams realised. Luxe 13 Inkerman Street, St Kilda. Phone 9534 0255.