Wines of the West

Vines were first planted in the west and a substantial industry established in the 1840's. However it did not last and by 1980 wine production had contracted to the Swan Valley outside Perth - a hot region that makes full flavoured wines and fortified styles. Through the1980's and 90's, plantings exploded. WA was a rich state and wealth from the mineral boom was a substantial driver of the expansion. Backers of the new vineyards were shrewd business operators and most ventures hadlonger term business plans. WA had a buoyant economy at the time and as well, several new ventures coincided with general boom times across Australia. This meant that premium prices were achieved from the first releases, causing high re-investment. Professional winemakers and top quality oak could be afforded with the result that better and better wines were made. It quickly became a self fulfilling prophecy as WA wines sold at higher prices but became recognised for higher quality despite their youth.

The search for a climate to grow Bordeaux style wines in WA by Robert Mondavi of California, and his linking up with the Horgans is well known. Margaret River was established and goes from strength to strength. There is equal excitement with newer regions to the south such as "Great Southern" around Albany, Mt Barker and Frankland River, and Pemberton which is to the west. The majority of producers including small ones, have export channels established and therefore are somewhat immune to the ups and downs of the Australian economy. The last year or two has seen the revival of Sandalford, the public float and huge expansion of Evans and Tate, the buyout and new financial strength of Goundrey, and the arrival of Petaluma (to buy Smithbrook), Hardys (toconsolidate Houghton and Moondah Brook and buy in to Brookland Valley)and Southcorp (to buy Devils Lair). Meanwhile the excitement continues with names such as Cullens, Leeuwin Estate, Moss Wood, Cape Mentelle, Pierro, Vasse Felix, Amberley Estate (in Margaret River), Alkoomi, Howard Park, Plantagenet, Wignalls (Great Southern), Picardy and Salitage (Pemberton), Capel Vale, Killerby (at Bunbury on the coast in a region know designated "Geographe").

Margaret River has certainly consolidated its reputation as a premium area for reds - particularly cabernet sauvignon. In recent years there have been a number of comparative taste-off competitions of the type loved by wine magazines. Usually Margaret River Cabernet is pitted against another famous region such as Coonawarra or Bordeaux. Margaret River has done very well - maybe its because both Bordeaux and Coonawarra had a string of more difficult vintages in the early and mid 1990's whereas Margaret River has been fairly blessed in this period with more even vintages. Nonetheless Margaret River is established as a world famous region for cabernet and to a high degree for semillon and semillon-sauvignon blanc blends. It is perhaps the region to do best with verdelho and Willespie's example is legendary. Great Southern does well with riesling, chardonnay and austere cabernets. Pemberton is becoming trendy for chardonnay and pinot noir. An interesting new release is a Pemberton Pinot Noir made by Cape Mentelle and labelled asFontys Pool. Salitage continues to impress with chardonnay and pinot noir.

Andrew Corrigan 2000