Exploring NSW Wine

Andrew Corrigan continues his wine trip around the states of Australia.

NSW was the first state to produce wine. There were vine cuttings with the First Fleet in 1788 which were planted at Farm Cove on Sydney Harbour. This was too humid and vineyards were established further west in what today are the western suburbs of Sydney. The first exported wine came from a vineyard on the Parramatta River in 1823. These vineyards were to prove unsuccessful but a famous name remains - Minchinbury was an early vineyard now commemorated on a sparkling wine. In the early and mid 1800's the challenge was to find a cooler region which did not suffer too much rainfall in autumn - the harvest season. However early settlers were hemmed in by the Great Dividing Range. Camden to the south west of Sydney was mildly successful. The Hunter Valley was the best of these new areas and became substantially settled in the 1830's and 1840's. As a macro climate, the Hunter appears too hot and too humid for premium wine but there are sub-regions that are successful - the cooling breezes up the Hunter estuary and the accompanying cloud cover keep the region cooler and enable it to be a classic region for semillon, shiraz and to an extent, chardonnay.

Given the size and climate diversity of NSW and its large population, it is surprising that the state does not play a bigger role in Australian wine - it produces about 20% of the national total, much of this from the Riverland around Griffith. Many wine drinkers have only heard of the Hunter Valley and show disdain for other areas such as Griffith and Mudgee. The current trends are that these areas along with new regions, are becoming excellent and an exciting new diversity of wine is available from NSW.

The wine regions of NSW can be thought of in three separate categories. Firstly there are the coastal regions that are very successful because they are close to population centres and there is considerable tourist activity. A look at the rapid development of resorts and restaurants in the Hunter valley in the last decade shows the huge demand. Secondly there are the vineyards on the higher altitude slopes of the Great Dividing Range. There is a range of climates from the Qld border in the north to Albury in the south. Regions such as Mudgee, Orange, Cowra, Canberra, Young, Tumbarumba and so on are examples. Thirdly there are the regions on the western plains including Griffith and the Murray Darling. In these western hot areas, new understandings of grape growing and wine making are seeing good quality at inexpensive prices. Brand names such as Jindalee, Cranswick, De Bortoli, McWilliams Hanwood, Miranda, Wilton / St Peters, West End and others are known for good table wine and usually sublime dessert wine.

The coastal region is dominated by the Hunter Valley. Rosemount, Tyrrells and McGuigan Brothers go from strength to strength. McWilliams and Lindemans have new cellar door outlets and their table wines have been rejuvenated in the last 5 - 10 years. Newer and smaller wineries are exciting - often there is considerable investment behind them. Pepper Tree, Cockfighters Ghost / Poole's Rock, Glenguin, Reynolds and Barrington are examples. Brokenwood is able to put on a vertical tasting of Graveyard Shiraz going back a decade. Lakes Folly was sold for multi-millions. Also on the coast is the long established Cassegrain at Port Macquarie and well regarded Coolangatta Estate at Nowra. Other producers are following into these areas.

It is on the Great Dividing Range that there is particular diversity. In the north Mudgee was often looked down upon - it has a climate which greatly improves upon the Hunter problems - it has a reliable dry summer. For a while it produced big alcoholic reds but experience and new techniques since the late 1980's have resulted in a new premium position for Mudgee. Orange is at a higher altitude and is especially cold - it has been a growing area for selling cold climate grapes to other producers, mostly in the Hunter Valley. In recent years, more and more wines are being released with an Orange origin - Rosemount and Reynolds have an Orange label. Independent producers there are becoming trendy - Bloodwood Estate, Brangayne, Canobolas-Smith and others. A public float of Cameron Estates is based on vineyards in the area. Further south Cowra and Canberra and the Young - Hilltops area are cold areas. They can be prone to frosts and not all problems have been solved. There is considerable interest - Orlando has been involved in Cowra through Richmond Grove for years. McWilliams has the very good Barwang range from Young. Hardys has invested in the Canberra area. There is great potential around Canberra to combine the advantages of a cold climate with closeness to a large affluent population. Independent producers there are making a great name and include Brindabella Hills, Clonakilla, Doonkuna, Helm, Lark Hill, Madew, Pankhurst and others.

Andrew Corrigan 2000