Italian Wine Flavours

As the Italian influence on our eating and drinking culture continues to grow, the term 'dago' is not much heard, at least not in the derogatory way my grandparents would remember. Instead you hear about DAIGO, 'Developing Australian Italian Grapes Organisation', formed by Garry Crittenden of Dromana Estate to bring together wine makers in Australia, who like him, are keen to make wine from Italian grape varieties. In 1992 Crittenden made his first Australian-Italian wine, a Dolcetto (sourced from Viv Thompson's old vines at Bests Great Western) and now is making Nebbiolo, Barbera and Sangiovese as well as a Riserva which is a blend of Nebbiolo and Barbera.

At Wine Australia last week, which attracted a record 28,000 attendees, there was much discussion of these varieties at the booked out seminars given by Brown Brothers, Enoteca Sileno and by Crittenden.

Brown Brothers Milawa have the greatest experience in working with Italian varieties and produce Barbera, Dolcetto, Nebbiolo, Pinot Grigio (not strictly an Italian variety) and, most recently, Moscato. The company has been making Barbera since 1988 mainly from King Valley fruit. The valley 's sheltered climate allows for the proper ripening of the Italian varieties and, by happy coincidence, many of the growers there are of Italian origin. Fred and Arnie Pizzini supply grapes to Browns and to Crittenden and now Fred is also making his own Sangiovese with the assistance of wine maker John Ellis.

The wines produced are very different to the French (chardonnay, cabernet, shiraz) and German (riesling) grape varieties which have dominated the market. Nebbiolo grapes produce hard and tannic wines which work wonderfully with rich, slow cooked dishes, such as osso buco. You can expect to pay from $17.40 (Brown Bros) to around $19 (Garry Crittenden i label). Dolcetto is a simpler, fragrant , softer style of wine (Brown Bros make this at just 10% alcohol content and recommend drinking it chilled with Asian foods. It is priced at $14.45. The Garry Crittenden i Dolcetto has 12.5% alcohol and sells for round $19). The Barbera is a style which goes well with meats and duck (from $15-$19) and the Sangiovese, a major Tuscan variety, is particularly suited to all olive oil based dishes. Both the Garry Crittenden i Sangiovese and the Pizzini sell for around $19.

Moscato has been very popular for the past three years at Browns' Milawa cellar door. It has recently been released in Melbourne for $12.90. With 6% alcohol content it's a 'safe' aperitif served very chilled or as a sweet fruity finish to a meal. Browns have high hopes for this light, slightly fizzy style which they feel suits the way we eat now. But Ross Brown has long been critical of Australia's wine makers previous lack of interest in the Italian varieties. Brown has said, "It is an indictment that Australia hasn't grown more Italian varieties and made Italian styles before this, given the established Italian culture and the interest in Mediterranean foods in the community."

But, it's a matter of public education, as these wines are still being referred to as being "ahead of their time" and that the public needs help in discovering their more subtle, dry style. It is important, says Crittenden, that they are tried with food, or at least, with olive oil and bread. Also important, he says, is that the restaurants put them on by the glass to allow diners the possibility of sampling before buying a bottle. Some places which offer these wines by the glass include Dogs Bar, Gypsy Bar, Luxe and Stella for the Pizzini Sangiovese ; Caffe Grossi and Mecca for the Garry Crittenden i Dolcetto.

And next week we talk about the Ovens Valley, neighbour of King Valley, an area which is filled with Italian families where there are shows in which home made Italian wines and salamis are judged and where there are as many ways of making pasta as there are mothers.

For more information about Australian wine visit Jeremy Oliver's site, On Wine. Also for more information about Italian food visit Italian Food In Melbourne .

Mietta O'Donnell

This first appeared in the Herald Sun on 3rd November, 1998.
©Mietta's 1998.