The Independent Palate
Part 1 - The Wine Trade

Opinions

The infuriating thing about wine is that there are no absolutes. There are only opinions and these opinions come from those who make wine, sell it, or live by talking about it. In other words, almost all wine information comes from those whose livelihood is, in one way or another, dependent upon it.

This is hardly surprising as wine knowledge depends upon access to a wide range of wines and such an investment in time, money and liver, that only a professional could afford it.

This is not to infer that wine experts deliberately spread mis-information. It is to emphasise that everyone is biased in some way or other and that this bias for someone in the trade can convert into tangible rewards or losses.

At this point I should state that in June 1990 when this was written, I was a restaurateur and my livelihood was also dependent on the sale of wine, of course this means that criticism levelled at other members of 'the trade' also applies to me. However, there was one difference - unlike the liquor industry norm, most of the wine we sold was consumed on our premises, in front of us, and our customer's reaction to it was immediate and sometimes quite forcibly expressed.

Making Wine 1: Terroir or Technology

The fruit used and the technique (and technical facilities) of the wine maker are what decides a wine's quality. But behind that rather obvious statement lies a dispute between the old and new world on which is the most important - technology or fruit.

The French believe that wine is made in the vineyard - that the fruit determines the wine. If a vineyard's 'terroir' i.e. the combination of soil, micro-climate and grape variety is right, then, weather permitting, the wine will be too.

In the middle of last century the leading wine merchants of Bordeaux totted up the prices paid for wines over time and came up with the famous classification of 1855 which rated the vineyards of the Medoc, part of Bordeaux, from First Growth (Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Haut Brion and d Y'Quem) through Second Growth (Pichon Lalande, Ducru Beaucaillou etc), Third, Fourth and Fifth to Cru Bourgeoise and Cru Artisan. Today, nearly 150 years, later this classification still stands enshrined in law and its judgements, making allowances for the human frailty of vineyard owners, are generally a reasonable guide to the quality of the wines produced. One up for terroir.

It's a word that strikes terror into the heart of the New World which, unlike the French, doesn't have a wine-making history stretching back 2,000 years to the Romans.

With a mere century or so of viticulture behind us in Australia, we have not yet determined the precise areas in which the various grape varieties give their best or even what are the right varieties for us. With a climate more Algerian than French there are real questions as to whether Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Cabernet from the snow bound vineyards of France are the best for us, or should we be looking towards sunnier vines and different types of wine. Some heretics are even suggesting that old fashioned Shiraz and Rhine Riesling, after all, may be the best grapes for Australia.

Therefore, as far as terroir goes, we don't rate. For Californians and Australians, technique is the major factor that determines quality.

Our climate requires the use of stainless steel, refrigerated fermentation, cultivated yeasts and any number of other expensive aids to wine making. Pioneered by Orlando in the early 1950's with Carte d'Or Riesling, this huge investment in technology has resulted in a marked improvement in the quality of our wines. Within certain limits it allows the wine maker to tailor the wine to his or her requirements.

In France too, modern technology has reduced the importance of the Almighty as a quality factor. The annual climatic variations are being evened out to the point that in Bordeaux improved wine making methods have almost banished poor years. 'Good' and 'Bad' are being replaced by 'Great' and 'Vintage of the Century'. Not so, of course, in Burgundy where the delicate Pinot Noir still stubbornly insists on sunshine to bring forth its rich, delicious, fruit flavours.

The reason for this discussion of French wines is that our vinous influences are primarily from France and California, and California's are from France.

I have talked to Australian vignerons who deny this saying that they have never drunk a French wine in their lives. That may be so but they are making wine from classic French grape varieties, and the show judges and wine writers who rule their lives certainly have and it is they, along with the major wine making consultants, who decide the style of wine that will be made.

Making Wine 2: Changing wine Styles

Almost universally the big heavy reds of 20 years ago have gone, swept away on a wave of hysteria over histamines. This aided by tax laws and market pressures, assisted by technical advances, have resulted in lighter wines that can be got to market within a couple of years and drunk more or less immediately. This suits both the vigneron who, faced with capital gains tax on stock and rising costs, cannot afford lengthy cellaring, and a new breed of consumer who is not prepared to wait twenty or more years for wine to mature.

It is not just in Australia that this is happening. World wide, wine styles are in a state of flux. Even Bordeaux is producing lighter, faster maturing wine, while in Burgundy the changes are even more dramatic. There better wine-making technique has radically lightened the style, allowing full play to the luscious Pinot Noir fruit.

In Italy this trend has descended into farce. The traditional D.O.C. classification is being completely ignored and some of the best wines are being produced in new ways as simple table wine (Vini da Tavola). For example Tignanello from the large Chianti producer Antinori is grown in the Chianti Classico area. It excludes the prescribed white varieties but includes 10% of forbidden Cabernet and so cannot be classified as Chianti. It is only as humble Vini di Tavola, but it does command a higher price than Chianti Classico.