Antipasto

No one agrees about what should be on an antipasto plate. Like everything in Italy it all depends on where you come from and what the family host likes to do.

Take my uncle Ferdi, the best cook in the Vigano family. After Mario's was sold he established Mario's Brighton, a highly successful large hotel in which all his children worked. Nanda, the second daughter went on to establish another successful Mario's Hampton (now sold) and only son, Mario, still runs his own pasta business.

I remember Ferdi's great antipasti for special parties at the farm spread out on the board and damask linen covered billiard table. They were typical of his clear thinking about flavours and about business. What works best with what. There would be something like three varieties of cured meats (a couple of salamis and a great mortadella); hard boiled eggs with mayonnaise based fillings; prosciutto with melon or figs; peperoni; olives and beautifully decorated canapes. His wasn't the flamboyant show off personality which my grandfather's was but he did like to display his cooking skills and the great buying power of the restaurant.

But that was 'antipasto' as part of a long lunch. Antipasto before a less indulgent meal can't be so lavish, otherwise there is no room for the rest, particularly the pasta. Because that is, after all, what the word means, 'before the meal'.

In many restaurants now an antipasto plate can be too elaborate with many different tastes and too big a quantity of food. Over ambitious antipasto plates (that is, with too many items) are worrying because there are so many bits and pieces to keep fresh. In Italy you'd find the big selections in hotel dining rooms and in gastronomeria where turnover and varied outlets help keep the products in condition. The wise Italian cook at home or in smaller restaurants will keep the antipasto to a couple of items only.

At Borsato (Silvana's former restaurant) I remember she used to serve some freshly sliced prosciutto on a slice of crusty pasta dura or some very fresh bocconcini and ripe tomatoes with a drizzle of oil and a little basil. Very simple presentation, small and just enough to accompany your aperitif. Because that's another important secret of Italians - they rarely drink wine without eating. So a little antipasto, a small taste, a mouthful of food is always served with wine. In the south of Italy, one of the simplest snacks we saw on tables was piles of the new season's broad beans in the shell. As you drink these get peeled and eaten. Healthy and communal.

At home our Italian cooks in Australia will always have something on hand, in the pantry or the fridge which can be used for unexpected guests.

Lou Molina talks about being 'sempre pronto' - always ready, to whip up a meal. He relishes the challenge. Mind you, it does mean that your pantry must always be stocked with pasta, oil, some vegetables, garlic, parmesan and usually a salami or other cured meat. And for Lou, as for Silvana and Tony and Patrizia, you do, of course, shop regularly for fresh food. More than once a week and you don't have any use for a freezer. In Italy, many Italians still shop daily.

And of course, they choose according to what's in season. You don't make tomato salad in winter, that's something you enjoy in summer with your fresh picked basil. But you do have pasta with tomato sauce in winter because you will have made your salsa in autumn. In Australia, Italian households have beer bottles filled with tomato sauce in their store cupboards. Does this mean Italians here drink a lot of beer? Not necessarily, though they do consume their share. But our beer bottles are easily sealed with a crown seal and are sturdy enough to withstand the vigorous boiling required to preserve the sauce. Near the Victoria Market is a shop which sells bottling equipment and bottles.

An antipasto basic are vegetables which at the height of the season (at peak of ripeness and depth of price) get preserved in oil for use throughout the year. These can make up a very economical antipasto plate. Raw vegetables can also be dressed fresh in salads, served with Bagna Cauda (the classic anchovy dipping sauce) ; or stuffed and cooked. Anchovy is one of the great starter ingredients, its complex saltiness does wonders for the appetite. Try taking young celery stalks, cutting them into bite size chunks and topping with an anchovy fillet. No appetiser could be simpler and more successful.

Then any cook would always have eggs on hand. These can be used in antipasto - hard boiled served plain or with mayonnaise toppings ( preferably your own made with oil, vinegar and egg yolks) or eggs made into frittata (the Italian flat omelette for which various recipes are given in this chapter)

Fishy things, such as sardines or tuna in oil; anchovies - either salted or in oil and fish roe, are all wonderful things to have on hand. But these are not cheap items to keep and its important to choose the best quality.

Cured meats Coppa, Mortadella, Prosciutto or Salami (countless varieties). These can be served simply sliced as part of a platter or served with fruit. Prosciutto and Melon is one of the great gastronomic combinations.

Olives, capers, gherkins and giardiniera (mixed preserved vegetables) all play their part in the changing feast that can be good antipasto . These are all strong flavours so small amounts are all that is needed. And they must be accompanied by bread in some form.

No Italian meal is complete without bread. With antipasto, grissini (the crisp, dry bread sticks which are very fine (finger thin) are delicious. Try wrapping a slice of prosciutto around a grissini.

Then there's Bruschetta, Ciabatta, Focaccia or Pizzette - breads and dough which make great bases for some of the piquant flavours of the antipasto plate.

But remember, with all great art, no less so in cooking, simplicity can be the hardest thing. Once you have achieved a perfect balance of flavour, leave it alone. As they say 'less is more'. So when you have a ripe tomato, fresh basil and good oil, you need just a little salt and bread. Basta - that's enough.

Following are a few ideas for Antipasto. There are many more things which can be considered. But if about to have a normal meal, Italian families wouldn't usually serve too many and spoil the appetite for the pasta and secondi/mains to follow.