Masahiko Yogo

Restaurant Mature Yogo is very hard to find. It is at the back of a shopping centre in Robina on Queensland's Gold Coast. The decision to open here was "one of vanity and of challenge" for chef Masahiko 'Masa' Yogo. The Japanese born chef (who describes himself as a French chef) decided that to dine at Mature Yogo, diners "would have to know of us and about us. We do not want to rely on walk ins which offer little consistency in numbers". Masa relies on and relishes a challenge. To date his challenge has paid off.

The name Mature Yogo has two meanings. Yogo is Masa's surname and 'mature' represents the stage of life he and his wife, Miyuki, are at with so many years of training, travel, experience, marriage and children (two, aged 13 and 11). Masa had worked for 13 years in hotels and French restaurants in Japan before travelling to Paris and Lyon in 1984 where he spent all his time wining, dining and researching restaurants. He then returned to Japan and opened his own successful French restaurant, Poisson, in Kyoto. This was quite exclusive, seating just 20 people with an eight course set dinner.

The young family were encouraged to try their luck in Australia, sold up the business and moved to the Gold Coast in 1997. Before opening their restaurant he and Miyuki devoted time to the making of pottery. His father is a well-respected, popular designer in Japan and maker of exclusive kimono accessories. In Australia they bought a kiln and made many of the plates which are now used at Mature Yogo. Masa says that his love of cooking stems from his love of creating and presentation, inherited from his father.

At Mature Yogo now, the walls are decorated with Obi silks designed by Miyuki's father, who is famous in Kyoto for his work. The restaurant was designed by the couple, with plates and the sinks in the toilets made by the two of them. The atmosphere they have created is very particular. The room is spaciously set, the tables large, the attention of their staff (usually one young woman and Miyuki) very good. They say that they are happy with the small clientele they attract, but for the amount of work, the skill of the cooking and the low prices charged - it is hard to comprehend how it can be worthwhile.

Masa's dishes are complex but not complicated. He uses classic French techniques and achieves great clarity of flavour. There is both a refinement and a naivete in his style. Possibly because of his lack of language he seems uncorrupted by the pressures of food trends, so happily presents things which might be considered dated in the 'big city'. The appetizer plate included an old style prawn with avocado dressed with an excellent mayonnaise; a perfect oyster with really tart lemon sauce and julienne of carrot. In between courses there is even a sorbet. A pear bavarois is amongst the desserts, and its texture is superb, served with a good chocolate sauce. The bavarois is a classic dessert, but then desserts just don't seem to date. There is something about the seduction of sugar and baking which goes beyond trends in food.

Mature Yogo opened at the end of March 1998 and the owners say they rely heavily on regular clientele. One year after opening they were voted a finalist in a popular choice award, an achievement they feel very proud of. Considering how small this restaurant is and how hard to find, their pride is justified.

Masahiko Yogo's Recipes

Rolled salmon marinade with mud crab cream sauce
Duck mousse enveloped in smoked duck breast pieces
Strawberry bonne bouche

Review of the restaurant Mature Yogo.