Review - Great Australian Chefs

Divine Food & Wine, Issue 21, Dec/Feb 2000

It is purely by coincidence that Mietta O'Donnell has just released a book on the very theme of this issue (honest). And what a bloody terrific book it is. I suppose the reason I am so over the moon about it is because it sets out to do exactly what we have tried to do with this issue: to acknowledge and applaud the role of Australian chefs in developing a fine dining experience that currently leads the world.

In one sense Great Australian Chefs is a cookbook; accompanying each of the 50 profiles is a handful of signature dishes. But the recipes are by no means the main focus of the book. That belongs to the chefs themselves: their history, upbringing, how they got into cooking, what motivates them, their philosophy behind why and what they cook, main influences and future plans... it's all there in black and white. Great Australian Chefs is a wonderful departure from the usual fluff that is more interested in awards, restaurant decor, view and famous patrons.

Not only does O'Donnell cut through the bullshit and tell it like it is (as a fellow restauranteur she understands only too well about all the game playing that goes on), there is also a very personal aspect to her writing via which individual personalities shine through. This is accentuated by highly evocative photographs taken during service (a very risky undertaking) by Tony Knox, O'Donnell's partner. (The hand shots are just brilliant.)

So good is this book that the following profile on Tony Bilson has been lifted in its entirety (except for the recipes- Divine doesn't do recipes) and reproduced here as part of the Chef's Issue.

Andrew Wood

This first appeared in the Divine Food & Wine, Issue 21, Dec/Feb 2000.