Vlado's

Watching Vlado Gregurek select a piece of meat and then caress it in his white gloved hands is an object lesson in care for a product. Vlado is the undisputed king of meat in Melbourne (he also has a branch in Osaka) and has been so for the past 34 years. Originally from Croatia, he became fired up about chargrilling meat in Paris, and not long after migrating to Melbourne as a customs agent he was able to persuade friend and band leader Dennis Farrington to help him with the finances to start a restaurant in Smith Street, Collingwood. The rest, as they say, is history.

The narrow two-story restaurant in Bridge Rd is a very simply set up. On the ground floor you can watch Vlado at work. Upstairs is quite cozy in an old-fashioned fussy way but can get a bit oppressive if there is a large, jovial table (often of boys at play) and you are dining a deux. The bias here is certainly male, it's real meat territory and the meat is fabulous. But there is no other reason to come here, if you don't enjoy grilled sausages or mixed offal followed by a large lump of meat, then this is not the place for you. The only choice you have here is the cut of beef and its degree of cooking. Very good grilled peppers, a standard salad in a wooden bowl, commerical horseradish and mustard, ordinary bread, salt and pepper all come with the meat. Ah, but what meat, and what care has gone into its selection, from the choice of animals to be killed, to the ageing of the carcasses, to the postion the portions are kept in the fridge, and the attention whilst on the flame. Truly an art form.

Deservedly one of Melbourne's premier tourist attractions.

For those who've been out of town for many years, Vlado's is now fully licensed and does not allow BYO. This change in policy has alienated some of his customers. The wine list is not extensive.

162 Elgin Street
Carlton
Seafood
Melways reference 2B:G6
Phone: 9347 9838
Opening hours: Lunch: Tues-Fri 12 noon-3pm Dinner: Tues- Sun 6-10pm
Licensed
Accepts credit cards
Seats Inside: 72
Features: Private room seats 30
Favourites: Set menu - appetiser, entree, main course, dessert, tea or coffee $52

An updated review of Vlado's