O'Connell's Centenary Hotel

Mietta's Eating & Drinking in Melbourne 2000

Contributors' Choice
Page 18

Harnessing the flavours of the Middle East within classic European techniques and making them work for Aussie palates is not always a success. Greg Malouf has been doing it at O'Connells for the past eight years and keeps getting better. He's spawned lots of imitators but remains the master. No easy task. His success is the product of a family heritage of fine home cooking and many years of training in good restaurants around the world. Interesting to see all this coming out in an apparently traditional South Melbourne pub, which does a brisk bar trade serving all ages, and is comfortable and relaxed place for women to go on their own. Then there's the more formal dining room with paintings on the walls, carpet on the floor and linen on the tables. It's here that you get the full range of Greg Malouf's creativity. There are simpler dishes available in the bar area. Overall the pub's success was in drawing from the advertising and film world whose offices are nearby. There's been talk of substantial changes being made to the hotel with the addition of accomodation. For the moment, it works brilliantly just as it is. And Greg Malouf's individual style is something which could only come from Melbourne. The combination of his Lebanese heritage, the ingredients available here and a clientele which combines culinary curiosity with the enjoyment of sitting at table for long lunches and dinners.

193 Montague Street
South Melbourne
Melways reference 2J:K2
Phone: 9699 9600
Opening hours: Restaurant Lunch: Mon-Fri 12 noon-2.30pm. Dinner: Tue-Sat 7pm-late. Bistro 7 days Lunch: 12 noon-3pm Dinner: 6-9pm
Licensed
Accepts credit cards
Seating Inside: 135, Outside: 30
Closed: Bistro on public holidays
Features: Restricted smoking, kids encouraged, private rooms seat 25 and 12. Favourites: Fragrant crisp Egyptian pigeon with cumin salt & savoy cabbage $15.50, Roast rabbit with honey preserved lemon, goat's cheese whipped potatoes and a watercress salad $24.50, Couscous Royal with seven vegetables, rosewater labne and green harissa broth $22

*An updated review of O'Connells