Langton's
Winner: Best establishment, $45-60
Winner: The New Star
Mietta's Eating & Drinking in Melbourne 2000
Page 32
Langton's Restaurant and Wine Bar
Phillipe Mouchel at the pass in Langtons
Wonderful proof that high quality and expensive are not inseparable descriptions. Whether you turn left at the foot of the entrance stairs into the minimalist but spacious bistro-bar area or venture right into the linen-topped tables of the main dining room, quality is assured. And it comes with a high value-for-money quotient. This is quality of atmosphere, settings and service, as well as food. It's a place to 'make a night of it dining' and for 'lunching to impress'. There also seems to be a steady flow of restaurateurs, caterers and food industry people who drop in for a dish and a chat.
Dining room and bistro are presided over from his celebrated central oven kingdom by master Phillipe Mouchel (ex Paul Bocuse) and a big team of skilled acolytes. The real value is in the bistro where one-dish diners do exceedingly well at all times of the day with clean cut fare at extremely moderate prices. A top venue for post-show suppers.
Plus points now (after a shaky start which caused lots of service complaints) are the willing, knowledgeable and attentive staff who seem to excel in precisely assessing the degree of chat and contact approprate to each customer (but like most places, food and wine writers still get more than their fair share of attention). And top marks for the wine degustation - for example, three 60ml glasses of classy pinots for $12. T.B.
Forget London, Rome and New York, this is the epicentre of good dining. Delivers any diner's wish list of fine food, exceptional wines and reliability. A polished performance at every level.
UPDATE - Many city dwellers have a very proprietorial view of Langton's. We really want it to be wonderful because we know and love Philippe Mouchel's food and want to be proud of this place. So this place gets watched like a hawk, every little nuance of Langton's performance, be it for the better or for the worse, gets reported to us. Latest report is that the success of the bar has prompted management to get larger tables and to let people order from the full menu. Lovely idea, but it is putting dangerous pressure on to an already super-active kitchen.
61 Flinders Lane
Melbourne
Melways refernce 1B:T9
Phone: 9663 0222
Opening hours: Breakfast: Mon- Fri 7am-11am Lunch: Mon- Fri 12 noon- 2.30pm, Dinner: Mon-Sat 6pm-10.30pm
Licensed
All credit cards
Seats inside: 110, Seats outside: 16
Closed: Most public holidays
Features: Restricted smoking, kids encouraged, bar, private room seats 35
Favourites: Chilled smoked salmon souffle served on a mushroom and potato salad $14.50, Teppanyaki grilled peppered aged rib of beef with bone marrow and red wine jus $25, Cold passion fruit souffle with pineapple coulis and passionfruit sorbet $9
An updated review can be found (.
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