Kanzaman

Mietta's Eating & Drinking in Melbourne 2000

Contributors' Choice
Page 64

This place oozes atmosphere. The first thing that hits you is the bold use of jewel-like colours - walls are painted sapphire blue, deep ruby red and soft amethyst-mauve and your eyes are drawn to the striking murals depicting Arabian deserts and busy market scenes (the same artist painted the minarets and starry nights at Dunyazed). Above are ornate glass and metal lanterns, in the corners are potted palm trees, lush velvet drapes hang from the ceilings and at your feet Persian rugs soften the dark hardwood floors. If you are lucky enough to get a wall table, then you can sink into a mound of soft cushions piled upon the banquette seating. Even when busy, this is not a noisy restaurant - rooms are large and the ceilings are high. Staff are immediately welcoming and you sense that these people are expert purveyors of that famous Lebanese hospitality. They are continuously making time to chat and laugh with customers, and take real trouble to help with food decisions. Our menus were brought swiftly and drinks came within minutes from the central curved wooden bar. The menu offers all the traditional Lebanese favourites - carefully seasoned dips, tangy vineleaves, crispy soft-centred falafel, and for mains tasty kibbeh balls and chargrilled lamb and chicken skewers, as well as a few more unusual and exotic offerings, such as Shah Rayar - a tomatoey lamb dish enlivened with a subtle and careful blend of herbs and spices; Samakah Harrah - a favourite Middle Eastern fish dish topped with creamy tahina sauce and Kraidis Bi Toum - spanking fresh prawns, pan-fried with lemon juice, garlic and fresh herbs. For dessert there is mahalabia - a delectable creamy dessert sprinkled with pistachio nuts and orange blossom syrup; the baklava and Turkish delight, which best accompany strong, cardamom-scented coffee, are top-notch - crisp, flaky and not too sweet.

458 Bridge Road
Richmond
Middle Eastern Cuisine
Melways reference 2H:D6
Phone: 9429 3402
Opening hours: 7 days Lunch: 12 noon-3.30pm Dinner: 6pm- 12 midnight
Licensed
Accepts credit cards
Seats Inside: 150
Closed: Some public holidays
Features: Restricted smoking, kids encouraged, bar, private romm seats 50
Favourites: Fotr $7, Ashtarout $16, Samakah harrah $22

*An updated review of Kanzaman