Eleonore's at Chateau Yering

Mietta's Eating & Drinking in Melbourne 2000

Runner Up: Favourite Country Place
Page 200

A great place to take you back in time to an era of gracious country dining but without the stuffiness. And an historic site where Wiliam Ryrie planted Victoria's first vines in 1838. The estate has been renovated with great attention to detail making Eleonore's the place to dine in the Yarra Valley. When you walk through the front door the warmth of the log fire welcomes you from the sitting room covered in wedgewood blue with very comfortable sofas. This is where afternoon tea is served on Sundays, what bliss!

The fine dining restaurant is named after Eleonore de Castella, a hostess renowned for serving the most refined food and quality wines. And this is being recreated under the direction of Sonia Cooper in the dining room, and in the kitchen, by executive chef, Garry Cooper. His combinations are inventive and elaborate, perhaps too complicated for a country restaurant. Each part of the meal offers real choices; that is, not only different ingredients but ones which have different textures, tastes and colours. Things are grilled, roasted, steamed, sautéed, braised, in pastry, with fruit and/or spices, with wine and/or liquor. Wines are suggested with each dish and what's more, there are vegetable accompaniments suggested - two for fish and white meats and three for red meats. This is a really intelligent approach and one which many city restaurants should look at. But is it what people want on a country visit? Perhaps it is too adventurous an approach. Fresh local produce cooked much more simply and at lower prices might yield more visitors to this very finely appointed restaurant. It is too complicated for the country, the dishes require a lot of skilled staff, and these are not easy to find out of the city. The wine list features local wines and other Australian premiums, prices are not low.

The property also encompasses the Sweetwater Cafe where you can enjoy some simpler but well flavoured dishes and a good choice of homemade cakes in a very pleasant atmosphere. Service here, as in Eleonore's, is very good. Professional and friendly.

Yering
Melways reference 275:C5
Phone: 9237 3333
Opening hours: Lunch Fri-Sun from 12 noon, Dinner: 7 days from 6.30pm
Licensed & BYO
All credit cards
Seats Inside: 150, Outside: 50
Features: No smoking, kids encouraged, bar private room seats 12
Favourites: Grilled duck breast $16.50, Baked veal and pigeon pie $28, Roasted kangaroo loin and veal tongue $28

An updated review of Eleonore's