Centonove Caffe

Mietta's Eating & Drinking in Melbourne 2000

Contributors' Choice
Page 52

Centonove does it for me - it has the feel of Italy, captured in Kew. Sam and Ricardo's enthusiasm and hospitality flood down through the waiting staff and into the kitchen. Bare white walls and large windows shield you from the wind that they claim always breaths across their doorway. It might sound uninspiring to some, but the lack of clutter in this tiny bistro is refreshing and tasteful.

The tables are chockers at breakfast, lunch and dinner, with locals who call it their own. There's always parking within walking distance, even though this little shopping centre is an unassuming crown studded with gems.

A bilingual menu covers all the classics with a touch of innovation. Polenta gnocchi, the most acceptable of dishes, refreshing amongst the raft of disappointing polenta dishes we see here in Melbourne, zucchini flowers stuffed with crab meat and fennel with crisp crust, most enjoyable. If it's not on the menu, never fear, when they change the menu regularly for their locals, there's always something equally appealing to excite.

The desserts are rich and splendid, and all the Italian aperitivi are up there to see.

If, on a balmy night, there's no space indoors, you can flow out onto the pavement tables amongst the cumquats and geraniums, most romantic. They even thought of a make up mirror in the 'ladies' along with fresh flowers - nice.

The wine list, many by the glass, is pretty good, and families with children are often there. Its clients make a nice noise.

Another fan and a local finds that noise too much, suggesting that you either come early here before it fills up or BYO ear muffs.

109 Cotham Road
Kew
Italian cuisine
Melways refernce 45:E6
Phone: 9817 6468
Opening hours: Breakfast: 9am-11.30, Lunch: 12noon-3pm, Dinner: 6-10pm
Licensed & BYO
Seating Inside: 32, Outside: 12
Features: No smoking, kids encouraged, bar
Favourites: Fiori di Zucchini Ripieni con pure' de cranchio e patate $11.90, Bistecca al ferri al pomodoro e basilico con insalate $20.90, Tiramisu $8.90

*An updated review can be found in Mietta's Eating & Drinking in Australia 2000 pg73, published by Black Inc., 2000, Vic