Caffe e Cucina

Mietta's Eating & Drinking in Melbourne 2000

Contributors' Choice
Page 51

The café that has, let's face it, defined chic Italian eating in this town, has been open now for more than a decade. It has spawned many imitators (some blatantly so) and just before the new century it is still a living breathing place full of life and tradition not to mention a huge amount of style. It's a place to see as well as be seen, with it's glamorous clientele and great looking staff. Even if you have never been to Caffe e Cucina before, because of the plethora of places that imitate the restaurant's style, you'll recognise it as soon as you walk in from Chapel St.

Downstairs and the place bustles, full of wonderful food and coffee smells. Stylish South Yarra types are clustered around the small tables. The lighting is subdued, people are eating pasta at the bar, the good looking and very much Italo-male dominated staff glide around the place barking orders to each other in Italian and the dark wood panelled walls vibrate with the sound of eating and drinking and people generally having a good time, e Cucina buzzes and it's nice to be a part of it.

Upstairs is more serene with less noise, starched white napery, attentive service and one of the great places in this town to take a special friend with whom you might want to become, shall we say, more special. The food is simple with great pasta and seafood.

I remember years ago seeing oyster hoops for the first time here, an idea that is ridiculously simple: two chromed metal rings are connected with three metal bars to produce a plate stand that elevates the food and also allows access underneath. I can still remember the calamari tender and absolutely delicious sitting on dressed rocket leaves. A wonderful dish sitting high and proud, 'how effective' I thought at the time. A perfect analogy for the premises where dare I say it, function and form come together so well. The Oxford reference dictionary defines quintessence as: the purist and most perfect form or manifestation or embodiment of a quality. I think it can be put forward that Caffe e Cucina is the quintessential Italian café (sic) in Melbourne.

581 Chapel Street
South Yarra
Italian
Melways reference 2L:J6
Phone: 9287 4139
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 7am-12 midnight
Licensed
Accept credit cards
Seating Inside: 50, Outside: 10
Closed: Some public holidays
Features: Kids encouraged, private room seats 36
Favourites: Parmesan ice cream $10.80, Calamari $13.80/$17.80, Risotto of the day $16

*An updated review can be found in Mietta's Eating & Drinking in Australia 2000, pg73