Mietta's Guide to Australian Restaurants

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Location

Melbourne Wine Room

Ph: (03) 9525 5599 ; The George Hotel, 125 Fitzroy St, ST KILDA 3182 www.melbournewineroom.com
Italian, $$ +
Open Tue-Thu 3pm-11pm Fri-Sun noon-10pm; Licensed; AE DC MC V, Seats inside 60, Outside seats, Private room Bar 80
Chef Karen Martini & Nicky Riemer (18-11-09) Owner Marino Angelini, Karen Martini, Michael Sapountsis & Marcus Ellis (5-12-08)

Mietta's Review
aren Martini is back from Sydney and overseeing the Wine Room food which continues to charge accordingly. Eating is split between the noisy busy bar and this slightly strange dining room made up of two small rooms knocked together with a ceiling so high the space seems unbalanced. It feels very removed from the life and action out front. The rather uncomfortable marriage between the Wine Room's two faces is held together by the cooking and the service. It is more fun to eat in the bar but the quality of the food sits uncomfortably with the busy, buzzing area. As you would expect the wine list is good.

Other published opinions

Gourmet Traveller 2010 Australian Restaurant Guide Score: * "Now heading towards its 15th birthday, the dark-hued, terrazzofloored dining room behind the George Hotel's rowdy public bar still has its moody sexy looks. Fabulous service helps, as does the wideranging list of Old and New World wines that's still one of the city's best"

The Age, Melbourne Magazine, Hot Larissa Dubecki, November 09 "The restaurant, hidden out behind the best bar in St Kilda, if not Melbourne, might feel a little cut off from the action if people-watching's your bent, but it's got the faded grandeur thing down pat with stripped-back walls and an aged mirror, with glowing, triffid-like modern chandeliers a cheeky addition that, strangely, doesn't jar. ... Our waiter's French, the excellent wine list with some great choices by the glass, is international, and the Wine Room's Italian heart is open to other influences."

Herald Sun " It's what they call moody, and Melbourne Wine Room is an enticing tete-a-tete venue, especially now that the talented Nicky Reimer has taken over head chef duties, bringing a Mediterranean spin to the menu."

Herald Sun 20-06-09 "Nestled in The George this restaurant turns out delectable food from its bar and restaurant menus"

Age Good Food Guide 2009 Score: 15/20 "Since 1996, this moody salon has been one of Melbourne's best-loved and most reliable finedining rooms, valued for its enthusiastic approach to wine, exemplary Italian-ish food and smooth service"

Gourmet Traveller 2009 Australian Restaurant Guide Score: * "Karen Martini Whether it's the buzzy, so-very-Melbourne front bar or the moody dining room out back, the dining experience at the George Hotel is always a joy. The waiters are switched on and cheerful, the wideranging wine list is impressive (lots of local and European bottles listed here) and at the heart of it all is Karen Martini's modern but comforting Italian cooking"

Herald Sun Extra Food, Bob Hart, 29-07-08 Score: *** "Nestled in the George this restaurant turns out delectable i food from both its ban and restaurant menus"

Herald Sun Eat, Bob Hart, 4-08-07 "Mercifully, the old pub - renamed the George in 1868 - is still there, but no longer offering -unparalleled views of the shipping in Hobsons Bay", as it boasted then. It would be fair to say, however, that it now offers food of a quality undreamed of in those days: it is a living, breathing (but non-smoking) reminder of the way we were, with tucker from the way we are. ... it was in that bar - rather than the adjacent, more refined restaurant - that a mate and I chose to eat lunch last week, ordering from the bar and restaurant menus, as diners are welcome to do."

Age Good Food Guide 2008 Score: 15/20, One Hat "The Wine Room, as it's universally known, is a rollicking Gen-X icon of carefree style. And the small dining room out back, with its mirrors, table lamps, Venetians filtering the outside world and Italian chandeliers illuminating the distressedplaster, is all about light and shade"

Gourmet Traveller 2008 Australian Restaurant Guide "The Melbourne Wine Room presents a dilemma; whether to stick to the front ban with its bustling conviviality augmented by a wine list boasting European and Australian boutiques, or head to the smallish bistro, where terrazzo floors, striking chandeliers and agedmirrored wall make a stylish salon"

The Age Good Food Guide 2006 score 15/20, 1 Hat "It's a noisy, balmy, beery, smoky night in the front bar at the Melbourne Wine Room, but out back it's all cool and subdued, illuminated (if that's the word) by lights that glow like a planktonic organism from the deep. The silvery patina of an antique mirror reinforces the feel of being somewhere maritime in the moonlight."

Gourmet Traveller 2006 Australian Restaurant Guide "This simple and intimate room is a world away from the adjoining bar in the George - and several hundred decibels quieter. That said, you're pretty close to your neighbours, chiefly local twenty-somethings, so keep the conversation sotto voce. Clientele may be casual, but there's nothing casual about the linen, the glassware, or the food"

Herald Sun Dining Out Simon Plant 21/6/05 Score 16/20 "Nearly 10 years after it began blazing a trail for good food and wine in St Kilda, the Melbourne Wine Room is still generous and gently priced. Service rarely misses a beat and the list of wines by the glass is one of the best in town. A stylesetter that just gets better with age."

The Age Good Food Guide 2005 score 15/20 One Hat "IT seems that Melbourne Wine Room's dining area has captured the essence of Melbourne itself: quietly stylish, comfortable, discreet, with a neat balance between professional worldliness and individual personality. Regulars pop in for a main and choof off. Soon-to-be regulars linger and make close study of a smart carte that does a fine interpretation of modern Italian"

Gourmet Traveller 2005 Restaurant Guide "A superior wine bar and restaurant downstairs at the grand old George Hotel in fashionable St Kilda, with Karen Martini back as executive chef, fine-tuning the modern Mediterranean menu"

The Age,A2,12/6/04,John Weldon,'slip through the bar into the classy and calm dining room and you leave all notions of uncultered enjoyment behind.'

The Age Good Food Awards 2004 1 hat, score 15/20, excellent wine list,excellent bar

Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide Australia 2004, 1 Black Star, Excellent wine list,'The food is simpler and less ambitious than was once the case, though still with Italian/Middle Eastern accents laid over a modern sensibility...Service and wine, as always, are beautifully handled...The wine room is a stylish and affordible option.'

The Age, Epicure, Restaurants, 1/4/03, John Lethlean, Score 15/20

Herald Sun, Food&Wine, Stephen Downes, Dining Out, 19/11/02, Score 16/20

Or perhaps ...

39 Pizzeria & Degustation (03) 9642 0440, 362 Little Bourke St, Melbourne

Arrivederci Aroma (03) 9606 0530, 408 Queens St, Melbourne - Near the Queen Victoria Market serving Italian food and coffee. Can be noisy with its rather industrial design.

Becco 9663 3000, 11 Crossley St, Melbourne - Popular, well pitched, inner city Italian - very Melbourne. Good litttle bar attached. Mains around $40.

Benito's 9670 5347, 445 Little Collins St, Melbourne - Benito's feels like an old friend. The menu at breakfast and lunch is Italian, and in the early evenings it's antipasto and wine.

Bottega 9654 2252, , 74 Bourke St, Melbourne - The room is pleasant, the dishes are simple but well done, and are complimented by a thoughtful wine selection.

Caffe Cento Venti (03) 9650 5621, 120 Collins St, Melbourne - Caffe Cento Venti has it all; a bar, a cafe, an upmarket restaurant and an outdoor area under the plane trees at the Paris end of Collins Street.

Cafe Chinotto (03) 9650 8666, Federation Square, 2 Swanston St, Melbourne

Cafe Intimo (03) 9606 0130, 439 Little Collins St, Melbourne

Cafe L'Incontro (03) 9650 9603, Swanston St cnr Little Collins St, Melbourne - A standard cafe but the position nestled next to the Town Hall makes it all worthwhile on a fine day.

Caffe Per Te (03) 9592 0169, 66 Church St, Brighton - Caffe Per Te, is somewhat of an institution in Brighton. The cool, dark wood interior, is a pleasant backdrop for the traditional Italian menu.

Carlisle Wine Bar 9531 3222, 137 Carlisle St, Balaclava - Along with an outstanding wine list and well-pawed cocktail menu, Carlisle Wine Bar also serves well prepared and moderately priced Italian dishes

Caterina's Cucina e Bar 9670 8488, Basement, 221 Queen St, Melbourne - Caterina's is only open lunches, it is primarily a businessman's dining room. Service is very good.

The Dogs Bar (03) 8534 3000, 54 Acland St, St Kilda - This is one of Melbourne's great bars, loved by its St Kilda locals and by folks who want to be by the sea on weekends.

Dweezil (03) 9593 9907, 172 Carlisle St, St Kilda

Federal Coffee Palace (03) 9662 2224, shop 22-23, melbourne gpo, 350 Bourke St, Melbourne

Florentino Cellar Bar (03) 9662 1811, 80 Bourke St, Melbourne - The tiny tables support large plates of pasta, and the bar, the elbows of the drinkers. Dark wood lined and clubby.

Florentino Grill Room 9662 1811, 80 Bourke St, Melbourne - A classic grill-room, good ingredients simply but correctly cooked, served by professional waiters

Il Bacaro 9654 6778, Shops 4 & 5, 168-170 Little Collins St, Melbourne - The epitome of Italian style and flavour. A gem of a place, cosily chic or crowded, depending on your girth.

The Italian 9654 9499, 101 Collins St, Melbourne - The Italian has moved half a block to swanky new, multi-layered premises, at the rear of 101 Collins St. Coffee bar on Flinders La, restaurant above.

Italy 1 (03) 9654 4430, 27 George Pde, Melbourne - In a narrow laneway, off the Paris end of Collins Street, is Italy 1, a small and intimate restaurant

Italy on the Bay (03) 9596 5477, 356-360 Bay St, Brighton - A cosy and warm space with the window over looking the street set with stools, and outside seating as well.

Journal Canteen 9650 4399, Shop 1 Level 1, 253 Flinders la, Melbourne - The new venture by Con Christopoulos (Degraves, European, Supper Club) is a smart modern cafe decorated as a reading room.

Luce Rossa (03) 9663 3437, Level 1, Oddfellows Hotel, 33-35 Little Lonsdale St, Melbourne

Lucia's Place (03) 9642 0943, 433 Little Collins St, Melbourne

Melbourne Wine Room (03) 9525 5599, The George Hotel, 125 Fitzroy St, St Kilda - The Wine Room is the old public bar of the George Hotel the adjacent dining room. The food is Italian and is well done.

Melbourne Wine Room Bar (03) 9525 5599, The George Hotel, 125 Fitzroy St, St Kilda - The prices are lower and the atmosphere livelier (read noisy and smoky) than the Wine Room Restaurant.

Nick's Bar 207 (03) 9670 4506, 207 Queen St, Melbourne - Nick's is not new. It's an old-style trattoria with traditional Italian food served by friendly staff.

Nick's Spaghetti Bar (03) 9606 0557, 556 Lonsdale St, Melbourne - Nick's feeds a lot of lawyers and other business folk nearby. There's a number of different rooms and a courtyard area.

Nostro Baretto (03) 9654 5838, Shop 25g, 350 Bourke St, Melbourne

Ortigia (03) 9670 0774, Shop 1, 443 Little Collins St, Melbourne - Mostly take-away this very popular pizza lunch spot at the legal end of town

Piadina (03) 9662 2277, rear, 57 Lonsdale St (Behind Bluebag), Melbourne

Pizza E Birra 9537 3465, 60a Fitzroy St, St Kilda

Pizze Vini Spuntini (03) 9077 8815, Shop 3, 1-3 Carre St, Elsternwick - The room is dominated by three, larger than life, Italian waiters. Proper, simple food, lots of fun and good value.

Ragazzi (03) 9686 6777, 165 Mills St, Middle Park - The boys have fun tossing pasta, pounding out dough and shovelling pizzas into the wood-oven.

Sapore 9534 9666, 3-5 Fitzroy St, St Kilda

Sarti 9639 7833, 6 Russell Pl, Melbourne - A lovely rooftop space with courtyard serving simple but well executed dishes. There's also a cheaper bar menu.

Society (03) 9639 2544, 23 Bourke St, Melbourne

Solarino (03) 9663 2636, Shop 7, 273 Little Collins St (Up Howey Pl), Melbourne

Spuntino (03) 9525 3599, 56 Acland St, St Kilda - Part of the Dog's Bar next door it is, as the name says, a place for an Italian snack. Low key, friendly and popular.

Sud Food & Wine Bar (03) 9670 8451, 219 King St, Melbourne - Tablecloths and a quality setting give this deep room, with its banquette seating, a sense of formality.

Tazio Birraria And Pizzeria (03) 9654 9119, 66 Flinders La, Melbourne

Treviso (03) 9670 8833, 4 Bank Pl, Melbourne

Vivace (03) 9596 9511, 317 Bay St, Brighton

Wheat (03) 9642 0288, 534 Lonsdale St, Melbourne