Or perhaps ...

Balencea (03) 9867 4466, 454 St Kilda Rd, Melbourne

Barbagallo Trattoria E Pizzeria 9639 6222, 103 Lonsdale St, Melbourne

Becco (03) 9663 3000, 11 Crossley St, Melbourne - Popular, well pitched, inner city Italian - very Melbourne. Good litttle bar attached. Mains around $40.

Benito's 9670 5347, , 445 Little Collins St, Melbourne - Benito's feels like an old friend. The menu at breakfast and lunch is Italian, and in the early evenings it's antipasto and wine.

Bottega (03) 9654 2252, , 74 Bourke St, Melbourne - The room is pleasant, the dishes are simple but well done, and are complimented by a thoughtful wine selection.

Caffe Cento Venti (03) 9650 5621, 120 Collins St, Melbourne - Caffe Cento Venti has it all; a bar, a cafe, an upmarket restaurant and an outdoor area under the plane trees at the Paris end of Collins Street.

Cafe Chinotto (03) 9650 8666, Federation Square, 2 Swanston St, Melbourne

Cafe Intimo (03) 9606 0130, 439 Little Collins St, Melbourne

Cafe L'Incontro (03) 9650 9603, Swanston St cnr Little Collins St, Melbourne - A standard cafe but the position nestled next to the Town Hall makes it all worthwhile on a fine day.

Campari House (03) 9600 1574, , NULL, 23-25 Hardware Lane, Melbourne

Caterina's Cucina e Bar 9670 8488, Basement, 221 Queen St, Melbourne - Caterina's is only open lunches, it is primarily a businessman's dining room. Service is very good.

Florentino Cellar Bar 9662 1811, 80 Bourke St, Melbourne - The tiny tables support large plates of pasta, and the bar, the elbows of the drinkers. Dark wood lined and clubby.

Florentino Grill Room 9662 1811, 80 Bourke St, Melbourne - A classic grill-room, good ingredients simply but correctly cooked, served by professional waiters

Grossi Florentino 9662 1811, 80 Bourke St, Melbourne - This really is a wonderful dining room. High decorated plaster ceilings, wood panelling, the famous murals, black clad waiters - it's a classic dining situation.

Il Bacaro (03) 9654 6778, Shops 4 & 5, 168-170 Little Collins St, Melbourne - The epitome of Italian style and flavour. A gem of a place, cosily chic or crowded, depending on your girth.

Il Nostro Posto (03) 9670 9939, , NULL, 60 Hardware Lane, Melbourne

The Italian 9654 9499, , 101 Collins St, Melbourne - The Italian has moved half a block to swanky new, multi-layered premises, at the rear of 101 Collins St. Coffee bar on Flinders La, restaurant above.

Italy 1 (03) 9654 4430, , 27 George Pde, Melbourne - In a narrow laneway, off the Paris end of Collins Street, is Italy 1, a small and intimate restaurant

Journal Canteen 9650 4399, Shop 1 Level 1, 253 Flinders la, Melbourne - The new venture by Con Christopoulos (Degraves, European, Supper Club) is a smart modern cafe decorated as a reading room.

Locanda Cucina (03) 9662 0511, , NULL, 186 Exhibition Street, Melbourne

Lucattini (03) 9662 2883, , NULL, 22 Punch Lane, Melbourne

Luce Rossa (03) 9663 3437, Level 1, Oddfellows Hotel, 33-35 Little Lonsdale St, Melbourne

Lucia's Place (03) 9642 0943, 433 Little Collins St, Melbourne

The Mess Hall 9654 6800, 51 Bourke St, Melbourne

Mezzo Bar and Grill (03) 9650 0988, , 35 Little Bourke St, Melbourne

Negroni's Bar & Grill (03) 9614 1319, , NULL, 477 Collins Street, Melbourne

Nick's Bar (03) 9670 4506, 207-211 Queen St, Melbourne - Nick's is not new. It's an old-style trattoria with traditional Italian food served by friendly staff.

Ortigia 9670 0774, Shop 1, 443 Little Collins St, Melbourne - Mostly take-away this very popular pizza lunch spot at the legal end of town

Pellegrini's 9662 1885, 66 Bourke St, Melbourne - This classic Italian espresso bar is a joy and a treasure. Unchanged in decades and still serving large, honest dishes.

Piadina 9662 2277, rear, 57 Lonsdale St (Behind Bluebag), Melbourne

Pizza Napoli (03) 9654 7127, , NULL, 122 Russell Street, Melbourne

Sarti (03) 9639 7822, , 6 Russell Pl, Melbourne - A lovely rooftop space with courtyard serving simple but well executed dishes. There's also a cheaper bar menu.

Scugnizzo 9670 5622, , 558 Little Bourke St, Melbourne

Society (03) 9639 2544, , 23 Bourke St, Melbourne

Solarino 9663 2636, , Shop 7, 273 Little Collins St (Up Howey Pl), Melbourne

Sotto e Sopra (03) 9602 2285, , NULL, 353 Little Collins Street, Melbourne

Sud Food & Wine Bar 9670 8451, , 219 King St, Melbourne - Tablecloths and a quality setting give this deep room, with its banquette seating, a sense of formality.

Tazio Birraria And Pizzeria (03) 9654 9119, 66 Flinders La, Melbourne

Treviso (03) 9670 8833, 4 Bank Pl, Melbourne

Wheat (03) 9642 0288, 534 Lonsdale St, Melbourne