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Guggenheim
Ph: (03) 9662 1655; 55 Flinders la, Melbourne 3000
Australian Cafe, $
Open Mon-Fri 7am-4pm, Sat 8am-1pm,, Closed Good Friday; Licensed; No cards, No bookings, Seats inside 20
Mietta's Review
For those of us who understand that a bagel is more than a bun with a hole in it but can't get to Acland Street as often as we'd like, Guggenheim Licensed Bagel Bar adds significantly to the amenities of the inner-city. It doesn't get everything right. It is closed on Sunday, for example, the time-honoured day for fressing bagels. And the liquor license is a bit of a cultural faux-pas. People who really know about bagels don't drink, unless it's sweet red Chateau Golan Barmitzvah wine, and there wasn't any of that on offer among the alien Semillons and Cabernets. Nor are the bagels themselves quite as nutty and chewy and sticky and almondy and crispy and flowery and vanillaish as the best of all bagels should be. But they fill them generously and inventively, after Rothko and Lichtenstein (don't ask what that super-gentile Warhol is doing on the menu), with enough pastrami and asparagus and cream cheese and horseradish and smoked salmon to make you feel you're in New York if not Manchester. Bagels are meant to be eaten in a panic, on the run, but if you have a few minutes to spare you could do worse than bolt them upstairs in the narrow, pleasantly functional galley which looks out on to the back of the Sofitel. That's good: when you're fressing a bagel you want to see nothing but the bagel. That's the nice thing about Guggenheim - it blots out all non-bagel-related business. Go there. Eat, eat!
Or perhaps ...
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