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De LacyPh: (03) 9670 9099; 29 Niagara La, MELBOURNE 3000 International, $$ + Other published opinions Herald Sun Bob Hart, 7-06-08 "THE food here is, quite simply, some of the best in town: thoughtful, refined and flawlessly executed. All of which is a bit hard to take when you consider chef Daniel Whelan's black-and-white bloodline. His grandfather, Marcus, was one of the greatest Pies of them all - winner of the 1939 Brownlow Medal and Copeland Trophy, a centreman of unique ability. ... Daniel cooks with the same sort of flair and versatility that his grandad demonstrated on the footy field." The Age John Lethlean, 10-6-2008 Score: 14/20 "A one-time employee at De Lacy could see the potential, too. Dean Bamford and his business partner, chef Daniel Whelan, re-opened DeLacy in early April after giving the historic shell a freshen-up. From the front door, there's a ground-level landing for the meet and greet. Down perhaps six steps is the kitchen and a private dining area. Up from the street level is the main dining area on a kind of large mezzanine, so all three levels interconnect. But with its white brick walls, dark tongue-and-groove board ceiling, period windows and snappy light fittings, the place looks as if it's operated by modern types who appreciate heritage architecture." |
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