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The 2008
Mietta Song Recital Award

Shira Nui

Ph: (03) 9886 7755; 247 Springvale Rd, GLEN WAVERLEY 3150

Japanese, $$, *** for Food
Open Tue-Sat noon-2pm, 6-9pm; Licensed, BYO, Corkage $3 person; AE DC MC V EFT, Seats inside 40
Chef Hiro Nishikura & Yuki Ueno (7-11-07) Owner Hiro Nishikura (7-11-07)

Mietta's Review
Glen Waverley and surrounding suburbs contain some of Melbourne's best Asian restaurants. One of them is Shira Nui. It's a very unassuming Japanese establishment that's brightly lit with yellow walls, floor and long blonde-wood sushi bar, where the main action is, and white clothed tables. Owner-chef Hiro Nishikura prepares the sushi and keeps an attentive eye on proceedings. The food is very carefully done and the flavour balance is correct. Prices, for the quality are very reasonable. It's worth the drive from the city, but ring first.

Other published opinions

Age Good Food Guide 2008 Score: 15/20, One Hat "In a bland shopping strip on Springvale Road, Shiranui is an island of exquisite Japanese food in the suburban sea. Specifically that food is sushi"

Gourmet Traveller 2008 Australian Restaurant Guide "JAPANESE Sit in Shira Nui's brightly lit, yellow-toned dining room and order a la carte and you'll probably leave satisfied but mystified about why there is so much talk about this unassuming Japanese joint"

The Age Dani Valent, 22-5-2007 "So, how to play it? You're facing the workstation rather than your dining companions: this is where your focus should be. Hiro-san undertook a 13-year apprenticeship to become this good. He's worth watching. His knife moves in fluid, ribbon-like motions, as though connected more to eye than wrist. His hands are rhythmic, plunging into the steaming rice container to pluck a handful, then squeezing and patting it deftly. It's good theatre but, rather than applause, the protagonist wants you to eat each dish promptly and to show your appreciation. Indeed, if you are tardy or unfocused, the journey may halt until you contritely request more food."

The Age Good Food Guide 2006 score 15/20, 1 Hat "Service is professional, with staff occasionally breaking into a run to attend a customer. Perhaps that's because there's nowhere to hide from owner-chef Hiro Nishikura, a fearsome bearded fellow who could have stepped straight out of a Kurosawa film. He is a master of multitasking, entertaining clients while simultaneously producing some of this city's finest sushi."

Gourmet Traveller 2006 Australian Restaurant Guide * "Tucked away in the relative obscurity of Glen Waverley, far from the gastronomic spotlight, the sushi master does his thing. And in this time-honoured manner of working hard and doing your best, fame, ofa sort, has caught up with purist Hiro Nishikura."

The Age (melbourne) Magazine May 05 John Lethlean "A la carte sushi at this funny shopping centre restaurant, which has developed almost iconic status among Melbourne's fooderati over the past three years, is brilliant. But it's not the ultimate. No, to take it all the way, you must sit at the bar to take the omakase option. Sushi purity. This is your no-menu, don't-stop-till-you've-hadenough, interview-with-the-devil of sushi."

Herald Sun Stephen Downes score 18/20, 15/3/05 "Shira Nui means a fire that isn't a fire. It refers to an aurora seen in a certain region of western Japan. What a great name for a fine restaurant modestly cloaked. Apart from a slight oversweetness here and there, I couldn't fault this place's food. The wine list is extremely limited, representative and well-priced. Only a house red and white are on offer by glass. But take your own."

The Age Good Food Guide 2005 score 14/20 "Glen Waverley's foray into quality Japanese cuisine attracts hordes of locals and food fans rarely seen dining so far from the CBD."

Gourmet Traveller 2005 Restaurant Guide * "Shira Nui does some a la carte Japanese cooking - but it calls itself a sushi restaurant. The approach is to sit at the bar and let Nishikura-san prepare his sublime treats for you, one by one."

The Age Cheap Eats 2004 "JAPANESE families rave about Hiro Nishikura's dazzling sushi, but diners will have to exercise care to stay within Cheap Eats parameters. Shira Nui presents stellar takes on authentic Japanese classics"

The Foodies' Guide 2004, Allan Campion & Michele Curtis,'Chef Hiro Nishikura is Melbourne's only licensed fugo chef,which means he's qualified to prepare the infamous (and potentially lethal) puffer fish.Much safer is his range of sushi and sahimi,but why not take the 'omakase' option,which leaves him to choose-after all,he knows what's best.'

AGFG 2004, score 14/20, wide selection of vegetarian dishes, two courses for $25 or less

Gourmet Traveller Restaurant Guide Australia 2004, Good vegetarian options,'on a big night this restaurant is as raucous as a Tokyo sushi den.They come for Melbourne's best sushi...the real joy is to sit at the counter and let Nishikura-san feed you.This approach will take you through some amazing flavour and texture combinations...Divine'

The Age, 28/12/03, John Lethlean

The Age, Food &Wine, 30/10/03, Matt Preston

The Age, Sunday Life, 15/6/2003, Eat Streets, John Lethlean